Tag Archives: daffodils

When To Cut Back Daffodil Foliage

Posted on by carole funger

Once daffodils quit blooming, things can get ugly. Even so, it’s essential to the health of the plant to let the leaves yellow. Removing foliage prematurely may neaten things up, but come spring you’ll have far fewer flowers. And everyone knows that daffodils look best in large numbers.

THE ROLE OF DAFFODIL FOLIAGE 

Few would dispute that daffodils are one of spring’s highlights. And with proper care, they multiply year after year. On the surface, they seem almost indestructible.

But don’t let that fool you. These bulbous plants are not maintenance free. In fact, their ability to grow and propagate depends largely on you.

It all stems from the foliage. Once the flowers fade, the plant can become an eyesore. As the leaves die off, they begin to turn yellow. And this can produce some unsightly clumps in the garden.

But tempting as it may be to cut them back, the dying leaves are performing a crucial task. They’re taking advantage of spring’s lengthening days to store up energy. And this in turn has a huge impact on the bulbs’ capacity to produce next year’s blooms.

WHY DAFFODIL FOLIAGE TURNS YELLOW

Indeed, the flowers may have stopped blooming, but the leaves still have work to do! Over the next six to eight weeks, they’ll slowly turn yellow. During that time, they’ll be absorbing sunlight which creates energy for the production of sugar. And sugar is what feeds the flowers for the following spring.

Sugar also replenishes the bulb after flowering, which can take a heavy toll on its reserves. Healthy bulbs store energy not only to withstand winter, but also to develop strong roots, shoots, leaves and flowers. Premature leaf cutting deprives them of this vital source of energy. 

STRATEGIES FOR HIDING YELLOW LEAVES

Looking for ways to hide dying daffodil foliage? One strategy is to plant larger perennials with similar leaves in the vicinity. Good choices include daylilies, hostas and Siberian irises. As the daffodils decline, the other plants’ leaves grow up around them.

Having said that, avoid planting deep-rooted plants near daffodils. This can disturb the bulbs. Remember, daffodil bulbs are only about 6 inches below the soil surface.

Daylilies can hide yellowing daffodil foliage

Many people fold over dying leaves to mask their unsightliness. I’ll admit, I did this for years. However, some plant experts believe this can damage plant tissue while inhibiting the process of photosynthesis (less surface area to absorb light.) I will leave the decision up to you!

WHEN TO CUT BACK DAFFODIL FOLIAGE 

Once the leaves turn entirely yellow, they are done for the season. You can remove them with shears. But if you wait for them to turn brown, you’ll only have to give a little tug.

A word of caution: At any other time, yellow leaves may indicate a problem such as fungal disease or basal rot. If this happens to your daffodils, check with your local nursery or online for how to treat.

For design ideas with daffodils (like above), check out my Instagram  And be sure to click on the Spring Garden Highlight to take a walk through a woods filled with 5000 colorful varieties. 

 

 

A Beginner’s Guide To 13 Types of Daffodils

Posted on by carole funger

In mid-summer, daffodils are rarely top-of-mind. But this is precisely the time when you need to be ordering them. And this is especially true for the more sought-after, unusual varieties. Why stick with yellow trumpets when daffodils come in so many colors, shapes and sizes? See below if one or more of these different types of daffodils wouldn’t be the perfect fit for your spring garden. Continue reading →

Daffodil Bulb Care: The Top 5 Things You Need To Know

Posted on by carole funger

Recently my inbox has been overflowing with questions from readers worried about the abnormally warm winter we’ve been experiencing. Many of the questions center on daffodils; in particular, what to do about unruly bulbs. Before replying, I first spoke with a few local nursery experts to gain their advice. Here are five of my readers’ top concerns about daffodil bulbs and what to do about them. Continue reading →

10 Great Spring-Flowering Bulbs

Posted on by carole funger

Yesterday I supervised the planting of 5,000 spring-flowering bulbs. We laid them out in patterns and dug them one-by-one into the earth. When we were finished, we dressed the bulbs with mulch and all stepped back to admire our handiwork. You could almost sense the pulse of spring making its way up from underground. Continue reading →

What To Do If Your Spring Bulbs Come Up Too Early

Posted on by carole funger

Let’s face it. It’s hard not to stress when your daffodils start coming up mid-winter. As weather becomes more unpredictable, early growth is becoming more and more common. Not to worry, though. Your spring bulbs have seen it all before. Moreover, they’re built to handle a few temperature swings.

THE UNDERGROUND WORLD OF BULBS

To understand why spring bulbs can tolerate a little premature growth, it helps to take a peek underground.

Botanically speaking, your bulb is a short stem surrounded by leaves that store food during dormancy. As soon as you plant it in the fall, it starts growing.

Bulbs have five main parts: a basal plate, scale leaves, protective tunic, flowering shoot and lateral buds. Growth begins in the basal plate. During the winter months, roots emerge from this modified stem to penetrate the soil.

As they develop, the roots absorb water and other nutrients that they store in the scale leaves. 

Photo credit/University of Illinois Extension

In some flower species like alliums, a thin papery covering called the tunic keeps the scales from damage or drying out.

Papery thin tunic keeps bulbs from drying out

The scale leaves also protect the flowering shoot. This vital part of the bulb contains all of the future leaves and flowers. During the winter months, the flowering shoot grows slowly upwards within the bulb. Eventually, it develops into a stem.

Sometime in winter, the leaves break through the soil. Then approximately one month later, the flower buds begin to appear.

At this stage in the process, the key thing to remember is: the flowers develop independently of the leaves. 

This means that even if your bulbs (specifically, leaves) come up early, the flowering shoots still need time (between 5 and 7 weeks) to develop. And before that happens, your bulbs have most likely weathered the warm spell and resumed dormancy.

So if you see leaves poking up out of the ground too early, don’t worry. A cold snap may cause them to yellow and die back, but the bulb will wait things out and send up new growth once things warm back up again.

WAYS TO SLOW BULBS FROM COMING UP TOO EARLY

There are a few strategies, however, that you can implement now to slow things down while providing an extra layer of protection to the flowering shoot.

1. COVER YOUR PLANT

Covering the soil around your spring bulbs will help insulate them against frigid temperatures and drying winds. Mulch, straw, bark chips, leaves and pine needles are all great alternatives.

Or, if your bulb is budding too early, try draping a cloth over it (securing it above the plant with stakes.) Make sure to remove the drape during the day, though, so the leaves can absorb sunlight, which produces heat. 

2. WATER DURING DRY SPELLS

Always water your bulbs immediately after planting to settle the soil and get the roots growing. Spring bulbs are generally considered to be drought-tolerant. However, if there’s been a dry spell for an extended period of time, you should water them once a week until conditions improve.

Make sure your soil has good drainage, though. Bulbs can rot if they receive too much water.

3.  IF FLOWERS START TO APPEAR

If the weather continues to stay unseasonably warm, your spring bulbs may start to produce flowers. Don’t worry. Even if frost kills off some of the initial buds, it usually won’t affect flowering in the coming months. And it won’t destroy your bulbs. They’ll still flower next year.

4. PLANT BULBS LATE IN THE FALL

The later in the fall you plant, the longer the bulb will take to sprout come spring. Wait until the temperature is cold enough (40°F or below at night) to plant your spring bulbs to ensure they’re fully dormant. Here in Maryland, I plant my daffodils in late November. 

Finally, make sure to plant your bulbs at three times their height in depth with the basal plate down and the growing tip up. Planting bulbs too shallow makes them vulnerable to frost heaves and can lead to premature growth. And planting them upside down can stunt their growth.

For a list of ten popular spring bulbs and when and how to plant them, click here.

Author’s note January 2020: According to Science News, there is growing evidence that, in general, warmer springs are bringing earlier spring flowers. This in turn will result in longer growing seasons and drier summers. (This does not, however, mean daffodils in January.) 

Here in Maryland we are having an unseasonably warm winter. In fact, it’s 65 here today on February 3. Below is a photo illustrating the state of my daffodils. (The leaves are about 3″ tall.) I’ll keep you posted as to their development. 

my daffodils in february

My own daffodils on February 3

Same daffodils on February 24 – all foliage, luckily no blooms!

Looking for garden ideas? I post my designs regularly on Instagram @carole.herebydesign