Once daffodils quit blooming, things can get ugly. Even so, it’s essential to the health of the plant to let the leaves yellow. Removing foliage prematurely may neaten things up, but come spring you’ll have far fewer flowers. And everyone knows that daffodils look best in large numbers.
THE ROLE OF DAFFODIL FOLIAGE
Few would dispute that daffodils are one of spring’s highlights. And with proper care, they multiply year after year. On the surface, they seem almost indestructible.
But don’t let that fool you. These bulbous plants are not maintenance free. In fact, their ability to grow and propagate depends largely on you.
It all stems from the foliage. Once the flowers fade, the plant can become an eyesore. As the leaves die off, they begin to turn yellow. And this can produce some unsightly clumps in the garden.
But tempting as it may be to cut them back, the dying leaves are performing a crucial task. They’re taking advantage of spring’s lengthening days to store up energy. And this in turn has a huge impact on the bulbs’ capacity to produce next year’s blooms.
WHY DAFFODIL FOLIAGE TURNS YELLOW
Indeed, the flowers may have stopped blooming, but the leaves still have work to do! Over the next six to eight weeks, they’ll slowly turn yellow. During that time, they’ll be absorbing sunlight which creates energy for the production of sugar. And sugar is what feeds the flowers for the following spring.
Sugar also replenishes the bulb after flowering, which can take a heavy toll on its reserves. Healthy bulbs store energy not only to withstand winter, but also to develop strong roots, shoots, leaves and flowers. Premature leaf cutting deprives them of this vital source of energy.
STRATEGIES FOR HIDING YELLOW LEAVES
Looking for ways to hide dying daffodil foliage? One strategy is to plant larger perennials with similar leaves in the vicinity. Good choices include daylilies, hostas and Siberian irises. As the daffodils decline, the other plants’ leaves grow up around them.
Having said that, avoid planting deep-rooted plants near daffodils. This can disturb the bulbs. Remember, daffodil bulbs are only about 6 inches below the soil surface.
Daylilies can hide yellowing daffodil foliage
Many people fold over dying leaves to mask their unsightliness. I’ll admit, I did this for years. However, some plant experts believe this can damage plant tissue while inhibiting the process of photosynthesis (less surface area to absorb light.) I will leave the decision up to you!
WHEN TO CUT BACK DAFFODIL FOLIAGE
Once the leaves turn entirely yellow, they are done for the season. You can remove them with shears. But if you wait for them to turn brown, you’ll only have to give a little tug.
A word of caution: At any other time, yellow leaves may indicate a problem such as fungal disease or basal rot. If this happens to your daffodils, check with your local nursery or online for how to treat.
For design ideas with daffodils (like above), check out my Instagram And be sure to click on the Spring Garden Highlight to take a walk through a woods filled with 5000 colorful varieties.
I hadn’t heard of Mike “Gibby-Siz” Gibson (short for scissor hands) until recently. But among those in the know, he’s been causing a sensation. Adept at clipping with both hands, the self-taught topiary artist not only boasts multiple awards but is also a regular on HGTV’s “Clipped.” And his playful, cutting-edge approach has made him one of the most sought-after topiary artists of the moment. Continue reading →
It’s that time of year again when we stock up on flowers for our containers. And the plants always start out looking great. But in no time, the blooms fade and the stems turn long and leggy. As a landscape designer, this is the most common question I get: How do I keep my potted plants in shape all summer? Continue reading →
When it comes to experts on lawns, University of Maryland’s Chuck Schuster is a cut above. Not only is he an educator in commercial horticulture, but he also consults on grass with many nursery, greenhouse, turf and garden center industries. And in his spare time, he provides guidance on turf protection to some of the largest stadiums and sports complexes in the Washington, DC area.
I was lucky to have Schuster educate me recently on the differences between cool and warm season grasses and how to build the perfect lawn.
COOL SEASON GRASSES
As a rule, most lawns grown in the mid Atlantic region consist of cool season grasses. These include fescue, bluegrass and ryegrass, all of which go dormant in January and February. But in early March, when temperatures climb above 32°F, these grasses become active. And from March to June, they are actively growing, with 60 percent of their top growth occurring in the first six weeks they break dormancy.
Cool season grasses put on 60% of their top growth from March to June.
In late June and July, however, when temperatures reach 85° F and above, cool season grasses undergo what Schuster terms the ‘Summer Slump.’ During this period, they don’t actively grow. As a result, they often turn brown.
Cool season grasses often turn brown during the ‘Summer Slump’.
Cool season grasses turn green again (resuming growth), once temperatures cool and soil moisture is replenished. This usually occurs in September, when they also begin developing roots for the winter. In fact, cool season grasses will continue growing underground all the way through December until the soil freezes.
Cool season grasses will continue growing until the soil freezes.
WARM SEASON GRASSES
Warm season grasses, on the other hand, prefer drier soils and have a high tolerance for drought. The most common of these are zoysia and Bermuda grass. These varieties tend to handle heavy traffic better and can tolerate closer mowing. In fact, Bermuda grass’s high resiliency and ability to heal itself quickly make it one of the top choices for many sports complexes.
“Warm season grasses are so resilient they’ll even creep over asphalt,” says Schuster.
Bermuda grass lawn
The downside for homeowners is that Bermuda grass and zoysia lawns turn brown when they go dormant, which usually occurs once temperatures dip below 50° F. On the East Coast, this isn’t the best look for a perfect lawn. Growth begins again when temperatures rise in the spring, with warm season grasses experiencing active growth from April through September.
Warm season grasses go dormant in the winter.
WHY YOU NEED TO KNOW THE DIFFERENCE
Why care what type of grass you have? Because, according to Schuster, understanding what type of turf you have determines its care. Building a perfect lawn involves controlling for mowing height, water needs and perhaps most importantly, fertilization requirements.
Before doing anything to your lawn (especially fertilization) determine whether you are working with cool or warm season grass!
THINGS THAT BUILD A PERFECT LAWN
According to Schuster, these are the five building blocks that go into making a great lawn.
Good soil
Adequate moisture
Proper mowing height
Yearly aeration
Proper fertilization
GOOD SOIL
Maintaining soil pH in an optimum range helps lawns absorb nutrients properly. Moreover, it reduces the threat from diseases and weeds. Generally a soil pH of 5.8 to 6.4 is considered ideal. Depending on your grass species, turf problems may start to occur when your soil pH is either above 7.8 or below 5.6,
To mitigate this problem, Schuster recommends doing a soil test to determine your soil pH before applying nutrients.
Determine your soil pH first before applying nutrients.
ADEQUATE MOISTURE
According to the Lawn Institute, most lawns grow best with a maximum total of one inch (2.5 cm) of water a week. This amount can come from rain or irrigation, or a combination of both. This will saturate the underlying soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm), allowing the roots to create a ‘soil-water bank’ to draw moisture from during periods of hot weather and drought.
Proper irrigation helps your lawn develop deep, strong roots.
PROPER LAWN MOWING HEIGHTS (Hint: Mow High)
Longer grass helps shade out weeds and keeps the soil cooler. Schuster recommends mowing cool season grasses a little higher, at 3- 3 ½ inches. This keeps grass greener in the summer and reduces thatch. Mow when the lawn is dry, removing no more than 1/3 of the height.
Warm season grasses, on the other hand, can be mown close to the ground due to their high resiliency and preference for drier soil.
Mow cool season grasses high to shade out weeds and diseases.
Either way, don’t forget to sharpen your blades once a year. Dull mower blades tear the grass blades, increasing the chances of disease and leaving a brown tint on the lawn.
YEARLY AERATION
Aeration helps a lawn maintain its health and vigor. It also reduces maintenance requirements by improving air exchange between soil and atmosphere while facilitating water and fertilizer uptake. Perhaps most importantly, it improves root development by reducing soil compaction. This in turn helps a lawn battle heat and drought better.
It also accelerates thatch break down.
According to Schuster, every good lawn benefits from a good aeration. It can be done in spring or fall. However, never aerate when the lawn is dried out or too wet, it will tear up the ground.
PROPER FERTILIZATION
Spring fertilization encourages top growth (and mowing) at the expense of root growth. It produces lush turf, but it also makes a lawn more susceptible to insects and disease. Depriving the roots of proper development increases risk during dry times in the late summer.
Fertilize cool season grasses in the fall for optimum root growth.
On the other hand, when you fertilize a lawn in the fall, the nutrients go mainly towards root growth. And healthy roots mean healthy plants. Grasses build a reserve to help survive the winter and start out strong in the spring.
“It’s the best bang for your nutrient dollar,” says Schuster.
BONUS: LEAVE THE CLIPPINGS ON YOUR LAWN
Who doesn’t like free fertilizer? Leave the clippings on the lawn to put nitrogen back into the turf. It bears noting that soil amendments like LeafGro are simply products made from our own discarded leaves and grass (and sold back to us by nurseries.)
Glass clippings return nutrients to the soil and contribute to healthy turf.
Grass clippings contribute to healthy turf by returning nutrients to the soil in a slow-release form. In fact, returning grass clippings to the lawn ‘credits’ it with as much as one pound of nitrogen per year, says Schuster.
TO RECAP
To build a perfect lawn, make sure to do the following:
Figure out what type of turf you have.
Do a soil test to determine pH needs.
Fertilize at the optimum time.
Mow at a height to benefit the lawn, not the weeds.
Aerate once a year to build strong and healthy roots.
And enjoy your lawn!
Our family dog, Winston, enjoying our cool-season lawn.
Last week, it snowed overnight. The flakes quickly blanketed the landscape, transforming my garden into a field of glistening white. But the next morning, I woke to discover my boxwoods splayed open under the weight of it, a pile of broken stems at their base. Snow is beautiful, but it can be tough on evergreens.
In fact, without proper preparation, cold weather can spell disaster for plants; especially broad leaved species like boxwood, rhododendrons and hollies. Here are five steps you can take now to your protect your evergreens from winter damage. Continue reading →
Who doesn’t love the taste of herbs cut fresh from the garden? Cold weather doesn’t have to spell the end of that enjoyment. In fact, you can grow bundles of savory herbs throughout all the seasons. All you need are some plants, a sunny window and a little TLC in the form of good soil, attentive watering and a regular supply of food. Continue reading →
To prune or not to prune? This is one of the quintessential gardening questions. Recently, I asked a top landscaper in Virginia to weigh in on the issue. “When is the best time to prune hydrangeas without cutting off next year’s flowers?” I asked.
“Never,” she replied with a laugh. “But your best shot is after they’ve bloomed.”
It turns out that knowing how and when to prune hydrangeas involves first, identifying what kind of shrubs you own. And it all starts with determining whether they flower on old or new wood. Continue reading →
Daylilies are called daylilies for a reason. Each flower lasts for just one day. But that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy more blooms, more often. All it takes is a little gardening know-how, and you can trick your plant into extending its flowering season. Continue reading →
Annuals for the cutting garden/Photo: Julie Hove Anderson Photography
As a landscape designer, I’m well versed in perennials and the kind of annuals you buy from a nursery. But when it comes to growing annuals from seeds, my experience lies mainly with zinnias. So recently, I was delighted to attend a webinar hosted by ButterBee Farm owner Laura Beth Resnick on the top annuals she grows for her cutting gardens. Continue reading →
Now that we’re all spending more time at home, it can’t hurt to know what’s blooming. And finding the answer is easier than ever with one the many plant identification apps available. But which ones work best and provide the fastest, most reliable data? To find out, I decided to do a side-by-side comparison. Continue reading →
