Category Archives: Gardening How-To

Pruning Hydrangeas: A Step-By-Step Guide For Old And New Wood

Posted on by carole funger

To prune or not to prune? This is one of the quintessential gardening questions. Recently, I asked a top landscaper in Virginia to weigh in on the issue. “When is the best time to prune hydrangeas without cutting off next year’s flowers?” I asked. 

“Never,” she replied with a laugh. “But your best shot is after they’ve bloomed.”

It turns out that knowing how and when to prune hydrangeas involves first, identifying what kind of shrubs you own. And it all starts with determining whether they flower on old or new wood.

PRUNING HYDRANGEAS THAT BLOOM ON OLD WOOD

Nikko Blue hydrangeas bloom on old wood

Old wood is quite simply, last year’s wood. Hydrangeas that bloom on old wood set their flower buds in late summer on stalks that have been on the plant since the previous year. 

Hydrangeas that bloom on old wood include the mophead, bigleaf (macrophylla), lacecap and oakleaf varieties.  

Oakleaf hydrangea is recognizable by its foliage that resembles oak leaves

In terms of pruning, these beautiful shrubs require very little. But if you must, knowing when and what to cut is key. That’s because the more old wood you take, the fewer flowers you’ll have next summer. 

Follow these three steps to maintain the health and vigor of your old wood hydrangeas:

  1. Immediately after flowering (and no later than July), prune flowering stems back to a pair of healthy buds.
  2. In late winter or early spring, prune out weak or damaged stems. Remove no more than 1/3 of the oldest stalks, taking them down to ground level.
  3. Repeat the process every summer to rejuvenate your shrubs and control their shape.

PRUNING HYDRANGEAS THAT BLOOM ON NEW WOOD

Limelight hydrangeas bloom on new wood

Hydrangeas that bloom on new wood set their flowering buds on the current season’s growth. Since their flowers come from new growth from the base of the plant, they can be pruned almost any time of year, except summer.

Hydrangeas that bloom on new wood include the smooth, panicle and limelight varieties. 

Follow these three steps to maintain the health and vigor of your new wood hydrangeas:

  1. Cut off faded blooms in late summer to improve the looks of the shrub.
  2. Prune out the oldest canes to improve vigor.
  3. Cut back the entire shrub in late winter before new growth starts to appear.

Additional tricks of the trade include leaving some of the older branches as a framework for new growth (these types of hydrangeas tend to open up and get floppy.) Many gardeners also advocate cutting the shrubs all the way back to the ground, which often produces bigger flowers.  

‘ANNABELLE’ 

Considered the crème de la crème of all the varieties that bloom on new wood, Hydrangea arborescens Annabelle is what is called a ‘smooth’ hydrangea. Smooth hydrangeas are known for their giant white blooms. They are native to the southeastern United States.

Distinctive white blooms of Hydrangea ‘Annabelle’

What makes Annabelle so special is that it not only produces enormous, pure white flowers from June to August, but it also stays compact, growing to just 3 to 5 feet tall and wide. At first glance, it can be hard to tell this cultivar apart from other white-blooming hydrangeas. However, a number of gardeners go by this golden rule:

Annabelle flowers open lime green in early summer, change to bright white mid-summer and then switch back to light green in late summer before turning tan in the fall.

More recently, an improved version of Annabelle called Incrediball has been developed. It features basketball-sized blooms and thicker, stronger stems that won’t flop over. In fact, they’re so sturdy that they’ll stay upright even in a rainstorm. 

‘Incrediball’ features 12″ flower clusters and blooms on new wood

Most professionals recommend pruning hydrangeas like Annabelle to help control for shape and to increase blooms. For this reason, many gardeners cut them back to the ground (within 6″) in late winter or early spring. Some say this encourages these varieties to produce larger flowers and sturdier stems. But others claim it weakens the plants over time, causing them to need to be staked.

I recommend taking the middle road and pruning Annabelles back to between 1 and 3 feet above the soil.

PRUNING PANICLE HYDRANGEAS

Panicle hydrangeas bloom on new wood

Panicle hydrangeas also bloom on new wood. As a result, they can be pruned in late winter or early spring before they produce new growth. Cut them to the ground or to just a few feet above the soil depending on the size plant you want to maintain. The best known of the panicle hydrangeas include PeeGee and Limelight.

THE SUNNY SIDE OF LIMELIGHT HYDRANGEAS

When they were first introduced from Holland in the early 2000’s, Limelight hydrangeas took the garden world by storm. Featuring enormous, football shaped clusters of flowers, the shrubs performed great in full sun (although for best color, they require some shade).

Limelights keep their beautiful celadon color all summer long before aging slowly to pink. In the fall, they change to shades of dusty red and burgundy. They are panicle hydrangeas and they bloom on new wood. Prune them like Annabelles.

Limelight hydrangeas bloom on new wood

ENDLESS SUMMER – THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS  

There’s a new kind of hydrangea in town called Endless Summer and it’s rocking the hydrangea world. Introduced in 2004 by Bailey Nurseries, Endless Summer hydrangeas bloom on both old and new wood. As a result, this gives them the ability to flower repeatedly all summer. The company’s tag line is, appropriately,

Experience life in full-bloom.

Endless Summer mophead variety

As of 2018, there are three different varieties currently available. Blushing Bride produces pure white mophead flowers that mature to soft pink. Twist-n-Shout is the first re-blooming lacecap variety. And BloomStruck has vivid purple or rose-pink mophead blooms that hold their color all summer. Summer Crush (available in 2019) will feature raspberry red or neon purple blooms.

It’s easy to imagine the benefits of plants that bloom on both old and new wood. Their flowers naturally last for most of the summer. Moreover, the company says Endless Summer hydrangeas bloom 10 to 12 weeks longer than average hydrangeas. Best of all, these hydrangeas need little to no pruning.

SOME COMMONLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT HYDRANGEAS

Why are my hydrangea flowers turning brown in the summer?

The main reason that hydrangea flowers turn brown is too much sun; specifically hot mid-day to afternoon sun. To prevent this problem, site your shrubs in areas where they receive direct sun either in the early morning or late afternoon. Same goes for the lacecap varieties, which tend to have a much shorter flowering span than the mopheads. Attention to watering during dry spells also helps prolong blooms.

What do I do if my hydrangeas have grown too big and floppy?

Most gardeners advise waiting until the shrubs have been in the ground for 5 years before beginning a pruning program. If you’ve got the type that blooms on new wood, prune your shrubs in late winter or early spring for shape, taking them down to between 1 and 3 feet from the ground. If you’ve got the kind that blooms on old wood, follow the method above, removing 1/3 of the oldest living stalks each summer after the shrubs have flowered.

When I cut blossoms will it hurt the other blooms?

After August, cut only short stems to avoid affecting next year’s blooms

For hydrangeas that bloom on old wood, deadheading (or cutting flowers for indoor arrangements) can be performed on long or short stems in June through July without affecting next year’s flower buds. After August, it’s best to harvest only short stems.

Can I prune some of the branches without affecting the others?

Yes. You are only cutting off the flower buds on the stalks that you prune.

Does watering keep the blooms going? Why do my hydrangeas look so dry in July?

As with all plants, watering during dry spells is key. Keep the soil moist around your hydrangea shrubs to keep the flowers going all summer.

I did all the right things and my hydrangeas didn’t bloom this year. What happened?

Weather can negatively affect blooms, too

Finally, you can follow all the rules and prune your new or old wood shrubs correctly, but weather can also have its negative effects, particularly frost. In colder regions, flowering can be adversely affected by either early fall or late spring frosts, making it confusing as to whether you pruned off the blooms yourself or left it to Mother Nature.

Looking for garden ideas? I post my designs regularly on Instagram @carole.herebydesign 

 

When To Cut Back Daffodil Foliage

Posted on by carole funger

Once daffodils quit blooming, things can get ugly. Even so, it’s essential to the health of the plant to let the leaves yellow. Removing foliage prematurely may neaten things up, but come spring you’ll have far fewer flowers. And everyone knows that daffodils look best in large numbers.

THE ROLE OF DAFFODIL FOLIAGE 

Few would dispute that daffodils are one of spring’s highlights. And with proper care, they multiply year after year. On the surface, they seem almost indestructible.

But don’t let that fool you. These bulbous plants are not maintenance free. In fact, their ability to grow and propagate depends largely on you.

It all stems from the foliage. Once the flowers fade, the plant can become an eyesore. As the leaves die off, they begin to turn yellow. And this can produce some unsightly clumps in the garden.

But tempting as it may be to cut them back, the dying leaves are performing a crucial task. They’re taking advantage of spring’s lengthening days to store up energy. And this in turn has a huge impact on the bulbs’ capacity to produce next year’s blooms.

WHY DAFFODIL FOLIAGE TURNS YELLOW

Indeed, the flowers may have stopped blooming, but the leaves still have work to do! Over the next six to eight weeks, they’ll slowly turn yellow. During that time, they’ll be absorbing sunlight which creates energy for the production of sugar. And sugar is what feeds the flowers for the following spring.

Sugar also replenishes the bulb after flowering, which can take a heavy toll on its reserves. Healthy bulbs store energy not only to withstand winter, but also to develop strong roots, shoots, leaves and flowers. Premature leaf cutting deprives them of this vital source of energy. 

STRATEGIES FOR HIDING YELLOW LEAVES

Looking for ways to hide dying daffodil foliage? One strategy is to plant larger perennials with similar leaves in the vicinity. Good choices include daylilies, hostas and Siberian irises. As the daffodils decline, the other plants’ leaves grow up around them.

Having said that, avoid planting deep-rooted plants near daffodils. This can disturb the bulbs. Remember, daffodil bulbs are only about 6 inches below the soil surface.

Daylilies can hide yellowing daffodil foliage

Many people fold over dying leaves to mask their unsightliness. I’ll admit, I did this for years. However, some plant experts believe this can damage plant tissue while inhibiting the process of photosynthesis (less surface area to absorb light.) I will leave the decision up to you!

WHEN TO CUT BACK DAFFODIL FOLIAGE 

Once the leaves turn entirely yellow, they are done for the season. You can remove them with shears. But if you wait for them to turn brown, you’ll only have to give a little tug.

A word of caution: At any other time, yellow leaves may indicate a problem such as fungal disease or basal rot. If this happens to your daffodils, check with your local nursery or online for how to treat.

For design ideas with daffodils (like above), check out my Instagram  And be sure to click on the Spring Garden Highlight to take a walk through a woods filled with 5000 colorful varieties. 

 

 

Top Topiary Tips From Mike ‘Gibby-Siz’ Gibson

Posted on by carole funger

I hadn’t heard of Mike “Gibby-Siz” Gibson (short for scissor hands) until recently. But among those in the know, he’s been causing a sensation. Adept at clipping with both hands, the self-taught topiary artist not only boasts multiple awards but is also a regular on HGTV’s “Clipped.” And his playful, cutting-edge approach has made him one of the most sought-after topiary artists of the moment. Continue reading →

How To Build A Perfect Lawn: A Turf Expert Speaks Out

Posted on by carole funger

When it comes to experts on lawns, University of Maryland’s Chuck Schuster is a cut above. Not only is he an educator in commercial horticulture, but he also consults on grass with many nursery, greenhouse, turf and garden center industries. And in his spare time, he provides guidance on turf protection to some of the largest stadiums and sports complexes in the Washington, DC area.

I was lucky to have Schuster educate me recently on the differences between cool and warm season grasses and how to build the perfect lawn.

COOL SEASON GRASSES

As a rule, most lawns grown in the mid Atlantic region consist of cool season grasses. These include fescue, bluegrass and ryegrass, all of which go dormant in January and February. But in early March, when temperatures climb above 32°F, these grasses become active. And from March to June, they are actively growing, with 60 percent of their top growth occurring in the first six weeks they break dormancy.

Cool season grasses put on 60% of their top growth from March to June.

In late June and July, however, when temperatures reach 85° F and above, cool season grasses undergo what Schuster terms the ‘Summer Slump.’ During this period, they don’t actively grow.  As a result, they often turn brown. 

Cool season grasses often turn brown during the ‘Summer Slump’.

Cool season grasses turn green again (resuming growth), once temperatures cool and soil moisture is replenished. This usually occurs in September, when they also begin developing roots for the winter. In fact, cool season grasses will continue growing underground all the way through December until the soil freezes.

Cool season grasses will continue growing until the soil freezes.

WARM SEASON GRASSES

Warm season grasses, on the other hand, prefer drier soils and have a high tolerance for drought. The most common of these are zoysia and Bermuda grass. These varieties tend to handle heavy traffic better and can tolerate closer mowing. In fact, Bermuda grass’s high resiliency and ability to heal itself quickly make it one of the top choices for many sports complexes.

“Warm season grasses are so resilient they’ll even creep over asphalt,” says Schuster.

Bermuda grass lawn

The downside for homeowners is that Bermuda grass and zoysia lawns turn brown when they go dormant, which usually occurs once temperatures dip below 50° F. On the East Coast, this isn’t the best look for a perfect lawn. Growth begins again when temperatures rise in the spring, with warm season grasses experiencing active growth from April through September. 

Warm season grasses go dormant in the winter.

WHY YOU NEED TO KNOW THE DIFFERENCE

Why care what type of grass you have? Because, according to Schuster, understanding what type of turf you have determines its care. Building a perfect lawn involves controlling for mowing height, water needs and perhaps most importantly, fertilization requirements.

Before doing anything to your lawn (especially fertilization) determine whether you are working with cool or warm season grass!

THINGS THAT BUILD A PERFECT LAWN

According to Schuster, these are the five building blocks that go into making a great lawn.

  1. Good soil 
  2. Adequate moisture
  3. Proper mowing height
  4. Yearly aeration
  5. Proper fertilization

GOOD SOIL

Maintaining soil pH in an optimum range helps lawns absorb nutrients properly. Moreover, it reduces the threat from diseases and weeds. Generally a soil pH of 5.8 to 6.4 is considered ideal. Depending on your grass species, turf problems may start to occur when your soil pH is either above 7.8 or below 5.6,

To mitigate this problem, Schuster recommends doing a soil test to determine your soil pH before applying nutrients.

Determine your soil pH first before applying nutrients.

ADEQUATE MOISTURE 

According to the Lawn Institute, most lawns grow best with a maximum total of one inch (2.5 cm) of water a week. This amount can come from rain or irrigation, or a combination of both. This will saturate the underlying soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm), allowing the roots to create a ‘soil-water bank’ to draw moisture from during periods of hot weather and drought.

Proper irrigation helps your lawn develop deep, strong roots. 

PROPER LAWN MOWING HEIGHTS (Hint: Mow High)

Longer grass helps shade out weeds and keeps the soil cooler. Schuster recommends mowing cool season grasses a little higher, at 3- 3 ½ inches. This keeps grass greener in the summer and reduces thatch. Mow when the lawn is dry, removing no more than 1/3 of the height.

Warm season grasses, on the other hand, can be mown close to the ground due to their high resiliency and preference for drier soil.

Mow cool season grasses high to shade out weeds and diseases.

Either way, don’t forget to sharpen your blades once a year. Dull mower blades tear the grass blades, increasing the chances of disease and leaving a brown tint on the lawn.

YEARLY AERATION

Aeration helps a lawn maintain its health and vigor. It also reduces maintenance requirements by improving air exchange between soil and atmosphere while facilitating water and fertilizer uptake. Perhaps most importantly, it improves root development by reducing soil compaction. This in turn helps a lawn battle heat and drought better.

It also accelerates thatch break down.

Aeration graphic before and after

According to Schuster, every good lawn benefits from a good aeration. It can be done in spring or fall. However, never aerate when the lawn is dried out or too wet, it will tear up the ground.

PROPER FERTILIZATION

Spring fertilization encourages top growth (and mowing) at the expense of root growth. It produces lush turf, but it also makes a lawn more susceptible to insects and disease. Depriving the roots of proper development increases risk during dry times in the late summer.

Fertilize cool season grasses in the fall for optimum root growth.

On the other hand, when you fertilize a lawn in the fall, the nutrients go mainly towards root growth. And healthy roots mean healthy plants. Grasses build a reserve to help survive the winter and start out strong in the spring.

“It’s the best bang for your nutrient dollar,” says Schuster.

BONUS: LEAVE THE CLIPPINGS ON YOUR LAWN

Who doesn’t like free fertilizer? Leave the clippings on the lawn to put nitrogen back into the turf. It bears noting that soil amendments like LeafGro are simply products made from our own discarded leaves and grass (and sold back to us by nurseries.)

Glass clippings return nutrients to the soil and contribute to healthy turf.

Grass clippings contribute to healthy turf by returning nutrients to the soil in a slow-release form. In fact, returning grass clippings to the lawn ‘credits’ it with as much as one pound of nitrogen per year, says Schuster.

TO RECAP

To build a perfect lawn, make sure to do the following:

Figure out what type of turf you have.

Do a soil test to determine pH needs.

Fertilize at the optimum time. 

Mow at a height to benefit the lawn, not the weeds.

Aerate once a year to build strong and healthy roots. 

And enjoy your lawn!

Our family dog, Winston, enjoying our cool-season lawn. 

Photos/shutterstock.com

How To Protect Your Evergreens From Winter Damage

Posted on by carole funger

Last week, it snowed overnight. The flakes quickly blanketed the landscape, transforming my garden into a field of glistening white. But the next morning, I woke to discover my boxwoods splayed open under the weight of it, a pile of broken stems at their base. Snow is beautiful, but it can be tough on evergreens.

In fact, without proper preparation, cold weather can spell disaster for plants; especially broad leaved species like boxwood, rhododendrons and hollies. Here are five steps you can take now to your protect your evergreens from winter damage. Continue reading →

How To Grow Herbs Indoors

Posted on by carole funger

Who doesn’t love the taste of herbs cut fresh from the garden? Cold weather doesn’t have to spell the end of that enjoyment. In fact, you can grow bundles of savory herbs throughout all the seasons. All you need are some plants, a sunny window and a little TLC in the form of good soil, attentive watering and a regular supply of food. Continue reading →

Top Annuals for the All-Season Cutting Garden

Posted on by carole funger

Annuals for the cutting garden/Photo: Julie Hove Anderson Photography

As a landscape designer, I’m well versed in perennials and the kind of annuals you buy from a nursery. But when it comes to growing annuals from seeds, my experience lies mainly with zinnias. So recently, I was delighted to attend a webinar hosted by ButterBee Farm owner Laura Beth Resnick on the top annuals she grows for her cutting gardens. Continue reading →

Identify Plants In A Snap With These 6 Top Apps

Posted on by carole funger

 What's That Flower app

Now that we’re all spending more time at home, it can’t hurt to know what’s blooming. And finding the answer is easier than ever with one the many plant identification apps available. But which ones work best and provide the fastest, most reliable data? To find out, I decided to do a side-by-side comparison. Continue reading →