Hillwood Museum: An American Garden With Roots Across the Pond

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Of the many beautiful gardens around Washington, D.C., Hillwood Museum has one of the best. Dramatically situated on a hill overlooking Rock Creek Park, the property’s English-style ‘outdoor rooms’ provide a year round display of seasonal color. As if that weren’t enough, a visit to the estate also affords sweeping views of the city across a naturalistic woodland setting. I recently visited on a sunny August day to see what was blooming.

The gardens

Hillwood is located just minutes from downtown in a tree-lined neighborhood in upper northwest D.C. The stately neo-Georgian home and sprawling garden date back to the 1920’s. However, the estate’s real history began in the 1950s. That’s when Marjorie Merriweather Post, a leading American socialite and philanthropist, purchased the property and began an extensive renovation.

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To expand on the existing gardens, Post commissioned prominent landscape architects, Innocenti & Webel. The pair were known at the time for their ability to mimic the greatest gardens in Europe. The team subsequently created the perfect foil for her refurbished home. The new design included 13 acres of formal landscaped gardens and native plants nestled within the surrounding natural woodlands.

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The garden begins at the house and radiates outwards in a succession of ‘rooms’ reminiscent of grand English style. Flowing one into the other via winding pathways, they are enclosed by manicured hedges and adorned with gates and ornamental statuary. Each room has its own shape and character, showcasing different moods and color schemes. Together, they present a stunning collection of flora and fauna.

Walking the gardens

I began my tour directly behind the mansion on a large, crescent-shaped terrace known as the Lunar Lawn. Framed by majestic American elms and lush groups of azaleas and dogwoods, this was Post’s outdoor ‘living room’ and the site of many majestic parties. In the same vein, a regal, 18th-century stone lion named Leo presides over the 13,000 square foot space.

Off in the distance, a collection of vintage blue and white chairs and umbrellas from the 1960s offer the perfect vantage point from which to view the handsome brick home.

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The French Parterre

To the right of the lawn, an opening in a hedge leads to the French Parterre. This formal garden was purposely designed to be viewed from the perspective of the house. The secluded space is enclosed by tall walls of ivy and features low beds of seasonal flowers, narrow channels of moving water and a central ornamental pool.

At the end of the garden, a statue serves as a focal point while opposite, a raised terrace provides a great viewing platform. 

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The Rose Garden

The fragrant Rose Garden is located just a few steps beyond the parterre. Circular in shape, it was designed by White House Rose Garden Designer Perry Wheeler. The space is divided into quadrants, each planted with a single variety of floribunda rose. Opposite the statue, masses of wisteria and climbing roses cascade over a raised, semi-circular brick and wood pergola. 

The Four Seasons Overlook

Directly behind the Rose Garden is a pair of brick posts topped with sculptures of children and birds. This marks the entrance to the Friendship Walk, an informally planted path leading to the Four Seasons Overlook. Shaded by a wide variety of flowering trees, including magnolias, dogwoods and cherries, it provides color throughout the growing season. As befits the theme, four stone statues representing the seasons adorn the space.

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At the far side of the Overlook, four bronze eagles with shields perch on a low, ivy covered wall. An inscribed plaque at the base of the wall states the ivy originated at Buckingham Palace. Beyond the wall, you can just glimpse a narrow path leading down through the woods into Rock Creek Park.

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The Japanese Garden

From the Overlook, a curved walkway leads around the edge of the Lunar Lawn to the Japanese-style Garden. The zen-like retreat spills down the hillside in a perfectly-formed landscape. Iconic Asian plants such as Japanese maples, gingkos, bamboo and mugo pines compose the space.

In the distance, an arched bridge spans a small pond while underneath a waterfall and jets send water rippling through the garden. Pairs of stone dogs and tall Japanese lanterns, the juxtaposition of which enhance the symbolic meaning of the garden, complete the peaceful picture.

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The Pet Cemetery

My last stop was the secluded Pet Cemetery, which is located in a small clearing in an area slightly removed from the other gardens. As I made my way to the little garden, I passed pairs of stone dogs standing guard amidst the shrubbery.

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It’s all about the view

At Hillwood, there are many terraces and overlooks with ample seating that provide great vantage points from which to take in the scenery. I rounded out my visit with a break on the large flagstone patio directly behind the house on the far side of the Lunar Lawn. From this point, the formality of the garden dissolves down the slope, merging with the woodlands beyond. In the distance, I could just glimpse the Washington Monument.

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A perfect end to a perfect day.

Hillwood Museum & Gardens is open Tuesday-Saturday from 10 am to 5 pm. For more information on Hillwood Museum and Gardens, click here.

All photos by Here By Design

 

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