Having A Ball With Alliums (Ornamental Onions)

They look like they hopped out of a Dr. Zeus book — bright purple balls stuck like lollipops on tall, sturdy stems. Ornamental onions (alliums) can be startling the first time you see them. That said, there’s so much to love about these magnificent plants, including long bloom period and resistance to most pests and diseases. And their curious appeal can really liven up a garden.

BALLS OF FUN

Why be so serious? Often it’s the unexpected that makes life so interesting. And without a doubt, ornamental onions were born to surprise. In formal landscapes, they inject a note of humor, while in informal ones they’re electrifying. And each year as their numbers grow, they form new, unexpected color combinations with other flowers in the garden.

Alliums in one of my spring gardens

Be that as it may, alliums are a relatively recent addition to the garden. In fact, they were virtually unheard of until the English garden designer Rosemary Verey, introduced them into one of her designs. Created in 1964, her jaw-dropping Laburnum Arch brought ornamental onions into the international limelight. Ever since, their popularity has only continued to grow.

Rosemary Verey’s famous Laburnum Walk

ABOUT ALLIUMS

Ornamental onions are part of the allium family, a large genus of plants that includes onions, leeks, scallions, garlic and chives. Unlike their edible cousins, however, they are cultivated solely for their flowers. Among the hundreds of species available, there are some that grow to 6 inches, while others reach as high as 4 feet. Their purple, pink or white blooms can be ball-shaped, star-shaped or pendulous. And some resemble exploding fireworks. 

Botanical Gardens in Gothenburg,Sweden/Photo: shutterstock 

Ornamental onion bulbs must be planted in the fall (at the same time as daffodils and tulips.) Most species make an appearance in late spring, when giant, paddle-shaped leaves start popping up on the soil surface. Eventually, the bulb sends up a thick, leafless stem topped by a single, swollen bud.

Over time, the bud slowly expands to reveal hundreds of tiny, star-like flowers that gradually combine to form a dense purple ball. By mid-June, many plants produce one or two additional blooms.

A fully developed flower head

DESIGNING WITH ALLIUMS

Ready to give ornamental onions a try? I say do like Rosemary Verey and go big. For the most impact, I sow my alliums in groups of threes or fives haphazardly throughout the garden. Alliums make great companions plants to other spring flowers like peonies and irises. And the later blooming varieties look great with salvia, yarrow, monarda, catmint and daylilies.

One of my designs combining alliums with pink azaleas and green hostas 

All allium varieties flower best in full sun, although they’ll also grow in semi-shade (see above.) Once the flower has died, cut the stalk down to refocus energy back into the bulb. Dried flower heads make great additions to indoor flower arrangements, by the way.

POPULAR ALLIUM VARIETIES

As I mentioned before, there are literally hundreds of allium varieties available. But, here are some of the most popular:

Purple Sensation, the earliest bloomer of all the large-flowered alliums, flowers in late spring. The variety makes a stunning companion to peonies, bearded irises and delphiniums. The 4″ to 6″ diameter violet globes float on sturdy stems that grow to 24″ high.

 ‘Purple Sensation’

If you’re looking for a big ‘wow’, try Globemaster and/or Gladiator. The tallest of the ornamental onions, these varieties boast huge purple flower heads (some measuring as big as 8″ to 10″ across) on 3 to 4-foot stems. A white version called Mount Everest is slightly shorter.

‘Globemaster’

‘Mount Everest’

Adorable Drumstick produces reddish purple cone-shaped flowers (like drumsticks) in July and is a great companion to other summer-blooming plants like daylilies, daisies, and coneflowers.

‘Drumstick’ 

Star of Persia (Allium christophii) is a wild-looking allium variety. It produces star-shaped fuchsia flowers on gray-green stems and blooms late spring to early summer.

Star of Persia/Allium Christophii

If you’re looking for real fireworks in the garden, try Schubert allium whose pink umbels look like an explosion. Seed heads look great in the garden, too, long after the blooms have faded. Blooms late spring to early summer.

Allium Schubertii

In addition to these great cultivars, there are lesser-known allium varieties that can keep the blooms going all through the summer. For more information on these as well as a great video on how to plant them, click here for Fine Gardening’s excellent article on these summer beauties.

To see photos of my garden designs, including plant lists, check out my Instagram at carole.herebydesign. I post seasonally from spring through fall. 

A Beginner’s Guide To 13 Types of Daffodils

In mid-summer, daffodils are rarely top-of-mind. But this is precisely the time when you need to be ordering them. And this is especially true for the more sought-after, unusual varieties. Why stick with yellow trumpets when daffodils come in so many colors, shapes and sizes? See below if one or more of these different types of daffodils wouldn’t be the perfect fit for your spring garden. Continue reading

Daffodil Bulb Care: The Top 5 Things You Need To Know

Recently my inbox has been overflowing with questions from readers worried about the abnormally warm winter we’ve been experiencing. Many of the questions center on daffodils; in particular, what to do about unruly bulbs. Before replying, I first spoke with a few local nursery experts to gain their advice. Here are five of my readers’ top concerns about daffodil bulbs and what to do about them. Continue reading

10 Resolutions To Make In Your Garden This Year

Every year, I make a list of things I want to achieve or change in my garden. But the year passes, I get busy planning my clients’ landscapes and before I know it, it’s mid summer. That is not an ideal time to start something new in the garden.

I’ve promised myself that this year, however, will be different. All those ideas I’ve jotted down in my garden notebook? I plan to convert at least some of them into reality. And January is the perfect time to sit down and create a plan for just how all of it will happen. Continue reading

10 Great Spring-Flowering Bulbs

Yesterday I supervised the planting of 5,000 spring-flowering bulbs. We laid them out in patterns and dug them one-by-one into the earth. When we were finished, we dressed the bulbs with mulch and all stepped back to admire our handiwork. You could almost sense the pulse of spring making its way up from underground. Continue reading

What To Do If Your Spring Bulbs Come Up Too Early

Let’s face it. It’s hard not to stress when your daffodils start coming up mid-winter. As weather becomes more unpredictable, early growth is becoming more and more common. Not to worry, though. Your spring bulbs have seen it all before. Moreover, they’re built to handle a few temperature swings.

THE UNDERGROUND WORLD OF BULBS

To understand why spring bulbs can tolerate a little premature growth, it helps to take a peek underground.

Botanically speaking, your bulb is a short stem surrounded by leaves that store food during dormancy. As soon as you plant it in the fall, it starts growing.

Bulbs have five main parts: a basal plate, scale leaves, protective tunic, flowering shoot and lateral buds. Growth begins in the basal plate. During the winter months, roots emerge from this modified stem to penetrate the soil.

As they develop, the roots absorb water and other nutrients that they store in the scale leaves. 

Photo credit/University of Illinois Extension

In some flower species like alliums, a thin papery covering called the tunic keeps the scales from damage or drying out.

Papery thin tunic keeps bulbs from drying out

The scale leaves also protect the flowering shoot. This vital part of the bulb contains all of the future leaves and flowers. During the winter months, the flowering shoot grows slowly upwards within the bulb. Eventually, it develops into a stem.

Sometime in winter, the leaves break through the soil. Then approximately one month later, the flower buds begin to appear.

At this stage in the process, the key thing to remember is: the flowers develop independently of the leaves. 

This means that even if your bulbs (specifically, leaves) come up early, the flowering shoots still need time (between 5 and 7 weeks) to develop. And before that happens, your bulbs have most likely weathered the warm spell and resumed dormancy.

So if you see leaves poking up out of the ground too early, don’t worry. A cold snap may cause them to yellow and die back, but the bulb will wait things out and send up new growth once things warm back up again.

WAYS TO SLOW BULBS FROM COMING UP TOO EARLY

There are a few strategies, however, that you can implement now to slow things down while providing an extra layer of protection to the flowering shoot.

1. COVER YOUR PLANT

Covering the soil around your spring bulbs will help insulate them against frigid temperatures and drying winds. Mulch, straw, bark chips, leaves and pine needles are all great alternatives.

Or, if your bulb is budding too early, try draping a cloth over it (securing it above the plant with stakes.) Make sure to remove the drape during the day, though, so the leaves can absorb sunlight, which produces heat. 

2. WATER DURING DRY SPELLS

Always water your bulbs immediately after planting to settle the soil and get the roots growing. Spring bulbs are generally considered to be drought-tolerant. However, if there’s been a dry spell for an extended period of time, you should water them once a week until conditions improve.

Make sure your soil has good drainage, though. Bulbs can rot if they receive too much water.

3.  IF FLOWERS START TO APPEAR

If the weather continues to stay unseasonably warm, your spring bulbs may start to produce flowers. Don’t worry. Even if frost kills off some of the initial buds, it usually won’t affect flowering in the coming months. And it won’t destroy your bulbs. They’ll still flower next year.

4. PLANT BULBS LATE IN THE FALL

The later in the fall you plant, the longer the bulb will take to sprout come spring. Wait until the temperature is cold enough (40°F or below at night) to plant your spring bulbs to ensure they’re fully dormant. Here in Maryland, I plant my daffodils in late November. 

Finally, make sure to plant your bulbs at three times their height in depth with the basal plate down and the growing tip up. Planting bulbs too shallow makes them vulnerable to frost heaves and can lead to premature growth. And planting them upside down can stunt their growth.

For a list of ten popular spring bulbs and when and how to plant them, click here.

Author’s note January 2020: According to Science News, there is growing evidence that, in general, warmer springs are bringing earlier spring flowers. This in turn will result in longer growing seasons and drier summers. (This does not, however, mean daffodils in January.) 

Here in Maryland we are having an unseasonably warm winter. In fact, it’s 65 here today on February 3. Below is a photo illustrating the state of my daffodils. (The leaves are about 3″ tall.) I’ll keep you posted as to their development. 

my daffodils in february

My own daffodils on February 3

Same daffodils on February 24 – all foliage, luckily no blooms!

Looking for garden ideas? I post my designs regularly on Instagram @carole.herebydesign 

Coastal Gardening: 12 Top Plants That Work

coastal home

Seashore gardening can present its own set of challenges. Plants that do well in the suburbs often perform differently at the shore. Still, there are many species to choose from that don’t mind drying winds and some salt in the soil. It just takes a little know-how and the right plants, and you can create a coastal garden that flowers non-stop from now until fall.

PROTECTING YOUR PLANTS

Strong winds are typical to the seashore – after all, that’s what produced them.  And coastal gardens often bear the brunt of these winds that can leave plants vulnerable to breakage. Salt spray not only can damage buds, stems and leaves, but can also lead to dieback. Often, these symptoms don’t show up until early spring.

In order to perform at their best, seaside plants need some protection. Screens are one way to protect vulnerable blooms. Another way is to site your garden close to the house or behind a stand of trees that can help break the wind and lessen its impact.

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My own seaside garden: a mix of mostly drought-tolerant plants 

IMPROVING SANDY SOIL 

If you’re growing plants at the shore, you are gardening in sandy soil. And sandy soil is naturally more porous. This means it tends to drain quickly and has trouble retaining water. You can combat this by adding compost, leafmold or other organic matter to your soil. This will not only help it conserve moisture, but also provide essential nutrients that your plants need to grow.

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Sandy soil drains water more rapidly

That being said, the number one way to ensure your coastal garden’s success is to choose mostly drought-tolerant plants. For those species that need more attention, make sure you’re around to water them. Or, install a drip line on a timer. All living organisms need water to survive.

COASTAL GARDEN COLOR

Bright colors show up better at the shore. That’s because bold hues stand out in strong sunlight, which tends to wash out lighter colors. Choose strong purples, blues, magentas, yellows and oranges for your coastal garden. And select plants with bold architecture like big leaves and strong stems for added definition.

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Bold colors show up best in bright sunlight

FALL PLANTING WORKS BEST

To give plants a healthy start, install trees, shrubs and large perennials in the fall when the soil is still warm. This will allow their roots to begin growing before the soil freezes.

Plant trees, shrubs and large perennials in the fall

TOP PLANTS FOR COASTAL GARDENS

ALLIUM (Flowering Onion)

Of the many allium varieties, ‘Purple Sensation’ is probably the bestl known. The giant ornamental onion has 4-inch rounded purple blooms that appear in late spring to early summer. Alliums, however, are a large family of bulbs that come in many shapes, sizes and colors. Yellowing foliage can sometimes be a problem, though, so pair them with large-leaved perennials to hide any decay.

allium

BLACK-EYED SUSAN (RUDBECKIA)

Black-Eyed Susans are some of the most heat and drought-tolerant plants around. Native to North America, these tall, golden wildflowers bloom from mid-summer until fall. Plant them in large masses in sun or part-shade for high-impact in the garden.

black eyed susans

DAYLILY

Daylilies seem to thrive in just about any condition. I’ve left clumps of them out all winter long and they still settle happily back into the ground come spring. Daylilies come in a wide variety of colors, from deepest purples to pinks, reds, yellows and even creamy white. There’s something for everyone.

daylilies

HYDRANGEA 

It’s hard not to think of a seaside garden without first conjuring up visions of round pink and blue flowers. Hydrangeas are synonymous with coastal living. My own hydrangeas flourish alongside my house where they feel safe and protected, faithfully producing blooms from June through August.

seaside.hydrangeas

LAMB’S EAR

In town, my lamb’s ear needs constant maintenance to look its best. When the plants receive too much water, their velvety leaves start to droop and decay. However, at the shore, my lamb’s ear adopts a new appearance, forming stiff, upright silvery-grey mounds.

lambs ear

In mid June, lamb’s ear often produces tall furry spikes of blue-grey flowers. They’re not to everyone’s liking, and many people remove them. At the shore, I leave them be so I can watch them sway in the ocean breezes.

LAVENDER

This plant is perfectly suited to coastal gardens. Lavender loves lots of sun and once established, thrives in near drought conditions. I’m constantly having to beat back my own lavender Hidcote to keep it in bounds in the border. Check out these great tips from Soleado Lavender Farm on the best species to plant and how to maintain them.

IMG_9734 (1)

NEPETA (CATMINT)

This hardy, drought-resistant perennial resembles lavender, but has a softer, more delicate appearance. It produces purple-blue flower stalks in May/June from above grey-green clumps of fine-textured foliage. I trim my nepeta back hard after its first flowering and enjoy a slightly smaller bloom in July. Nepeta’s soft grey-green foliage looks great paired with bright yellow daylilies and almost anything red or orange.

nepeta

PORTULACA

A low, creeping annual with succulent-looking stems and foliage, portulaca thrives in coastal gardens. Use it in the front of a border, trailing over a wall or in hanging baskets. Its bright colored blooms come in a range of shades from orange, red and yellow to bright white.

portulaca

RED-HOT POKER (Torch Lily)

I love this striking plant that sends up bright yellow-orange poker-shaped flowers on 3-foot stems. Drought resistant and attractive to pollinators, red hot poker likes lots of sun and isn’t picky about soil. It blooms in mid-summer. 

redhot poker

VERBENA

A perfect plant for coastal gardens, verbena’s large clusters of deep purple flowers and deep green foliage look good all summer long. The plant is primarily known for its purple blooms. However, you can now find cultivars in blue, pink, red and white that grow from 6 inches to 3 feet tall.

verbena

VERONICA

Also known as Speedwell, this long-blooming perennial with tall flower spikes is the perfect addition to a sunny coastal border. Best known for its intense, violet-blue flowers, it also comes in pink, rose and white. My favorite variety is the mid-sized Ulster Blue Dwarf, one of the truest blue perennials. Veronica is also a great source of nectar for bees and butterflies.

veronica ulster blue dwarf

YARROW

This elegant plant has flat-topped golden yellow flowers borne high atop asparagus-fern like foliage. Yarrow is especially captivating in seaside gardens where it sways softly to summer breezes. 

yarrow

Yarrow blooms from mid-summer to fall and in addition to the traditional yellow, come in shades of orange, red, pink and white. It also makes a long-lasting and sturdy cut flower.

DROUGHT-TOLERANT DOESN’T MEAN WATER-FREE

While most of these plants are drought-tolerant, they’ll still need watering from time to time. Give your coastal garden a healthy start by improving the soil with compost or other organic matter before planting. Mulch well to hold in moisture and use overhead irrigation whenever possible to wash off salt from the foliage. And avoid watering your plants during the hottest hours of the day, which can burn the foliage.

 

 

Spring at Winterthur Gardens: The March Bank Takes Center Stage

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Growing up in Delaware’s Brandywine Valley, I looked forward each year to the first buds poking their tiny heads out of the ground on Winterthur Gardens’ March Bank. Planted over a century ago, the stunning display unfolds like a giant rose in the springtime, blanketing the dreary winter hillside with waves of vibrant color. For the area’s residents, the March Bank is the true harbinger of spring. It’s always worth a visit just to witness the joyous arrival of the tiny woodland flowers. Continue reading